Penley Estate

This is now our 4th year of working with the wine auteur Kym Tolley and his outstanding Penley Estate wines, and it's been a steadily building success. Later this year, Kym will celebrate Penley's first 20 years since its establishment in the heart of Coonawarra in 1988. Since the word go, the awards have flooded in, both from the gruelling and ultra-critical Aussie wine judging circuit, and from international wine critics such as Robert Parker and UK-based Matthew Jukes. Our take on the wines is that they are always elegant and balanced, distinctly European attributes that are notoriously hard to find in wines from the world's driest continent. They also show a marked ability to age gracefully in bottle.

Being Australian, they are distinctive and fullflavoured but they are never heavy or clumsy. People have been talking about the current Australian drought, and it has caused complete mayhem in the broad acres of Riverland and Riverina where irrigation is essential. Kym's sustainable vineyards on classic terrarossa soil in Coonawarra, mostly dry-farmed, have been much less affected by this biblical agricultural catastrophe. Yields in 2007 were only 15% down, while 2008 was normal and of very high quality. Penley Estate's high scores and warm words from international wine pundits are welcome, but it does mean that we know exactly what we can expect for the next few years.

Kym's wines are widely distributed around the world, and the UK has to fight for its allocation the same as everyone else. Despite all this, there is a varied selection of wines available, from the effervescent Sparkling Pinot Noir to the profound Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines divide up into the range of Chardonnay, and the 'mythical beasts' range of Cabernet, Merlot, Shiraz and Shiraz/Cabernet, the Reserve selections made from (predominantly) Shiraz and Cabernet, and then the quirky offerings that include the Sparkling Pinot Noir and the Rose. Sparkling Pinot Noir 2007 is an irresistible, fun, refreshing, deeply hued offering brimming with red and black fruit flavours. Low in alcohol, this is easy going and well-priced. Over the Moon Rose 2007 is a lively, aromatic red berry fruited effort that includes Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Cabernet in the blend. Chardonnay 2004 achieves 89 RP points, and 'reveals a good crisp underlying acidity along with notions of white peaches, tropical fruit, mint and subtle oak.

Rich, well-made and restrained, it should drink well for 2-3 years'. 2005 follows. Condor Shiraz/Cabernet 2004 gets 90 RP points, and 'it boasts an inky/ruby/purple colour as well as scents of graphite, dusty, loamy soil, a resiny, pine forest element, and plenty of blackberry and currant fruit. Deep and well-made with good tannin and structure'. 2006 will follow. Gryphon Merlot 2005 gets 20% new French oak. Parker describes it as offering ‘toasty cassis, blackcurrant and olive aromas which leads to a supple medium to full-bodied wine with sweet fruit and light tannin’. Phoenix Cabernet 2005, the key Penley wine, does not disappoint either. Deeply coloured, it gives off generous layers of cassis, liquorice and spice from the new oak. Rich, powerful with melting tannins, it will last for 4 years at least. Hyland Shiraz 2005 is a lovely hedonistic wine that combines toasty new oak, blackberry, blackcurrant and cherry fruit. Layers of flavour, and elegantly structured too, it should be good for 8 or so years.

Reserve Cabernet 2004 'was aged in 100% new oak, 80% French and 20% American. It has a splendid aromatic array of toast, spice box, pencil lead, licorice, black currant, and blackberry liqueur. This is followed by a full-bodied, opulent, layered Cabernet with well-integrated tannins, and a long, pure finish. It will continue to evolve with 3-4 years in the cellar and drink well through 2024. RP 92 points'. Special Select Shiraz 2004, Parker states, 'raises the bar considerably. Barrel-fermented in 100% new oak, mostly American. It reveals an alluring bouquet of cedar, earth, pencil lead, smoked meat and game, licorice, blueberry, and blackberry. Full-bodied, it is still tightly wound but very well-balanced. It is full-flavored, spicy, and succulent with 6-8 years of aging potential. It should drink well through 2024. 91 points'.

Chertsey 2004. Kym was keen to visit the 'little village' of Chertsey when he was last over in the UK. Some of his ancestors had originated from here. We dissuaded him, and painted a picture more akin to Ali G and the Staines Massive than his vision of an idyllic English village with pub and duck-pond. He took the news well. Chertsey the wine is a classic on the other hand. It is a rich and character-laden Bordeaux blend that got 90 points from Robert Parker, and 2004 was the wine's first release.