In 1965 Tom Jones had a hit with 'It's Not Unusual'. Funny that, because what is very unusual is to be able to put together a back catalogue of Chianti Classico's to taste from 1965 right up to the present day, from a producer of the calibre of Badia a Coltibuono. That's what we did this month and Victoria Daskal attended amongst others and wrote some great tasting notes about the wines. Here are some of her comments about the tasting a selection of the wines tasted which appeared on Jancisrobinson.com
"Badia a Coltibuono back to 1965
13 Oct 2008 by Victoria Daskal
“I’m a real Chianti girl”, proudly claimed Emanuela Stucchi Prinetti, owner of highly acclaimed Tuscan estate Badia a Coltibuono. Dressed all in black, with dark hair pulled back, this striking Italian woman led us through an equally impressive vertical tasting of her Chianti Classico Riservas ranging from 1965 to 2005....
...She stressed that tradition and loyalty to Chianti are the backbone of her family’s philosophy. Yet she has worked hard to innovate the winery and its methods, such as using gravity flow systems and having all their 70 hectares certified organic, which is still a relative novelty in the region....
“To drink a Riserva before it is 10 years old is a pity”, advised Emanuela. But it could be hard to wait that long, as the latest vintages of the vertical were the most stunning in my opinion.
The lunch served after the tasting at Vintners’ Hall proved to be a useful lesson in Italian wine and food pairing, as well as to exhibit the winery’s wider range – see observations in the relevant tasting notes below.
Badia a Coltibuono 1965 Chianti Classico Riserva 15.5 Drink 1975-95
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. Mostly Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and up to 30% Malvasia & Trebbiano.
Brick red with hints of dark amber. Fading nose, liquored cherries. Very thin, soft, fragile wine… some acidity and slightly metallic. Very fine body, but interesting rise in flavour on mid palate, though fades quickly. Fascinating to taste in order to understand this Chianti Classico Riserva’s development, but will not last much longer. 15% (VD)
Badia a Coltibuono 1972 Chianti Classico Riserva 16.5 Drink 1982-2002
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. Mostly Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo and up to 30% Malvasia & Trebbiano.
Deeper, opaque, rusty brick red colour and lots of sediment.
Strong nose with aromas of cigar box, liquored cherries and dried fiqs.
Intense, surprisingly big fruit flavour, light tannins. Rising semolina flavour on finish.. strange, or am I imagining I’m in Italy? 15% (VD)
Badia a Coltibuono 1981 Chianti Classico Riserva 16 Drink 1991-2011
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo
First brilliant red, still with orange tinges. Light nose, not especially expressive.
Strong character and a bit more aggressive tannins. Lively acidity, soft underlying fruit and tobacco aromas. Slightly metallic aftertaste. 15% (VD)
Badia a Coltibuono 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva 18 Drink 2005-2025
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo.
Beautiful nose, fruit forward, with background of light cedar wood, and hints of black olives. Soft, velvety, mouth filling, excellent structure. Fine tannins. Very elegant and delicious wine. 15% (VD)
Badia a Coltibuono 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva 18 Drink 2012-35
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Organic. Awarded tre bicchiere in 2008 by Gambero Rosso. Brilliant, vibrant violet-red colour. Bold, youthful aromas of morello cherries, and some floral notes. Slightly aggressive tannins, woody without being overbearing. Drinks well now, but needs to sit for a while longer and mellow out - tantalising, seductive aromas are making me impatient. 15% (VD)
Badia a Coltibuono 2005 Chianti Classico Riserva 17 Drink 2013-35
24 months in casks of French and Austrian oak. 90% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo. Organic.
Purple-red colour, very youthful and brilliant. Expressive nose. Strong tannins, very strong fruits and acidity… everything is strikingly strong and pronounced! Yet works well together. Will be nice, but needs time. 15% (VD)"
Lunch was rounded off with a fine Vinsanto del Chianti Classico. Back to Victoria Daskal again:
"Badia a Coltibuono, Vinsanto del Chianti Classico DOC 2003 Vinsanto del Chianti Classico 17 Drink 2008-30
Fermentation and 4 years ageing take place in small oak casks, which are sealed and kept exposed to the seasonal variations in temperature. 50% Trebbiano, 50% Malvasia.
Radiant, rosy amber colour. Very fragrant, persistent nose. Rich and sweet, but lively from acidity… lots of honey, citrus, sweet nectarine. Excellent with not too sweet desserts, perhaps tiramisu. 15% (VD) "
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