Established in 1904, and still based in an actual palace, this is probably the most beautiful and historic bodega in the whole of Rías Baixas - a DO over 5 sub-regions stretching from the Salnés Valley in Pontevedra province right down to the Portuguese border.
Bodegas del Palacio de Fefiñanes was the pioneer of Albariño in the region, and they were the first producer to bottle wine under the DO Rías Baixas. This is a stand-out operation.
Built in 1583 in the spectacular main square of the coastal town of Cambados, both palace and winery belong to the urbane Juan Gil - who is actually a marquis (the Marqués de Figueroa) - and his family.
The winery buys almost all its grapes from local growers under long-term contracts
overseen by Fefiñanes’ oenologist Moncho.
The house style here is delicate and floral – which has become unusual in this area, given the many newer, artificial yeast inspired offerings now made in the region; and the straight Palacio de Fefiñanes is quite delightful – with a beautifully nuanced nose, a palate of baked apples, lemon and honey. Invariably drunk very young, it actually ages very well for 2 or 3 years.
Two further styles are also made, but in tiny quantities. They are, exceptional wines:
Tercer Año is aged on its lees for over a year, and released 3 years after production. The intensity of citrus fruit is astounding, the complexity and length remarkable.
1583, on the other hand, is barrel fermented, deliciously creamy, impeccably balanced, and for those in search of an alternative to super premium Chardonnay from Burgundy or even California.